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Nightlife
In Cádiz, the city's role as a beach resort deeply
affects the way night owls party after dark. In winter,
when cold winds blow in from the Atlantic across the
Bahía de Cádiz, nightclubbers find shelter
in the Old Town, especially in its northernmost quadrant,
the neighborhood radiating outward from the Plaza de
San Francisco. Here, within a labyrinth of impossibly
Active Pursuits
Most beachgoers, unless they come from Cádiz's
Old Town, usually visit the wide-open and sunny sands
of the Playa Victoria, an intensely developed but still
very appealing beach that's a household name for beach
lovers throughout the region. In our opinion, this is
one of the best beaches in Spain, with very wide and
champagne-colored sands. This beachfront is constantly
made wider by a government-sponsored campaign to keep
pumping tons of sand here from points offshore. Arc
lights illuminate the beach like a stage every night
until around midnight. Dozens of different tapas bars,
restaurants, and nightlife options are found adjacent
to the edge of the beach. It's richly developed and
commercial but not junky. On Playa Victoria's outer
fringes there is an isolated and savage section where
the waves pound more heavily and the sense of isolated
nature increases. This savage beachfront is especially
strong on the causeway linking modern Cádiz to
its outlying suburbs and the rest of Spain.
Paseo Marítimo is the main drag along Playa
Victoria and in summer has the most active chiringuitos
(beach bars) in the province.
But for residents of the La Viña neighborhood
in Old Cádiz, there's only one beach that matters:
Playa de la Caleta. It's relatively narrow and is hemmed
in by rocky shoals at low tide. There are no changing
booths or public toilets. Known as a "natural beach,"
it's immediately adjacent to structures and fortifications
whose foundations in some cases are more than 3,000
years old. Just behind the seawall, you'll see the two
biggest trees (both of them ficus) in Cádiz province.
Set on the lawn of a stone-fronted building that houses
the administration for a local hospital, they're each
about a century old, and are reputed to have been planted
in honor of missionaries who left Cádiz for good
works in the New World. Set near the extreme western
edge of the Old Town, Playa de la Caleta is sometimes
known as "Baño de la Viña" after
the neighborhood (Barrio de la Viña) that abuts
it. That same neighborhood -- a crowded, churning, overcrowded
cauldron of local color -- is credited with originating
the version of Carnival that's now fervently celebrated
in Cádiz and in some of Spain's former colonies,
notably Cuba. Access to this "City Beach"
is free and possible at all hours of the day and night
without restriction and without supervision.
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