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Jaen

Jaen was one of the most beautiful, historic places that we stayed at and it proved to have a wealth of history and architecture. Our fist call was at the tourist office and for the first time ever, we found it difficult to find and the staff were very unhelpful, bordering on rude. However, we went on to explore the city under our own steam.

The castle at the top of the hill dominates the skyline. It now houses the best parador in Spain.

The Cathedral rises in the heart of the old city which comprises of a maze of old streets, oozing atmosphere. The main facade of the cathedral is a massive tableau of stone, flanked by two towers. Inside, don't miss the 18th century choir and the seats dating from the 16th century.The cathedral with it's 26 metre high towers, dwarfs the city. The Cathedral can be visited, free of charge and is well worth the effort. Outside the Cathedral is a square that makes a perfect resting place to admire the architecture.

The Arab Baths are of the best preserved in the country. The visit is free, under tight security and the visit combines several museums. There is a good guide available in English that explains the history and the workings of the baths. They were discovered in 1913 and declared a national monument in 1917.

There are dozens of churches and convents in Jaen, all with a unique character of their own, many beautiful squares with statues and fountains and a thriving market town style shopping area.

Semana Santa in the provincial capital of Jaen is an impressive experience that has been held since the middle of the 16th century and today is of great importance to the tourist. More than 7,000 hooded penitents escort the images through the streets on Good Friday.

On the first Sunday in September, Jaen hosts the feria de la Divina Pastora, a deeply rooted religious festival. It begins with a dawn mass, followed by the waving of banners by the Brotherhood of Shepherds, established in the 16th century. At night there is an outdoor fiesta with singing and dancing. In October the end of the bullfighting season is marked with impressive bullfights on horseback as well as colourful carriage displays.

The cultures of Iron, the Iberians and the Romans, left their mark on Jaen. The Arabs considerably developed the city due to its advantageous position for controlling the way between the meseta and the lands of Granada. Santa Catalina Castle was founded by the Arabs and enlarged by the Christians in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.
The Cathedral is Renaissance on the inside, with a Baroque front. The interior is by Andres de Vandelvira, who felt a passion for pure architectural elements. Interesting features include an almost flat vault, and the much admired sacristy. Eufrasio López de Rojas produced the facade from 1667 to 1686, inspired by El Escorial and by St. Peter's in the Vatican. The columns and pedestals belong to what is known as the giant order. In harmony with these elements, the abundant statues are also of a considerable size. In the Cathedral, the veil of Veronica and the holy face of Christ are venerated; for this reason Jaen" is known as the capital of the Holy Kingdom.
The Renaissance palace of VilIardompardo is home to Arab baths from the eleventh century and houses the Museum of Art and Popular Customs.