Jaen
Jaen first emerges from history at the time of the Iberian culture. The first inhabitants established their settlements throughout the Guadalquivir Valley, during the first millennium before Christ. The archaeological sites of Jaen, Huelma and Porcuna indicate a prosperous civilization, well versed in agricultural skills. Greeks, Phoenicians and Carthaginians all left their mark. The Romans, attracted by the rich mining possibilities, founded new towns such as Castulo (Linares) or Iliturgi (Andujar).
In 712, Jaen becomes Arab terrain. From then on it will be known as Geen or Xauen which means “place for caravans passing through”. Their legacy was strongly felt in a large number of the towns which had previously belonged to Rome. In 1212 the Christian troops of Castille, vanquished the Saracen troops in the Battle of las Navas de Tolosa. And so ended another stage of the Reconquest. Years later, in 1246, King Alhamar handed over the city of Jaen to Fernando III. In 1492, the Reconquest and the discovery of the New World now over, Jaen began a century of remar-kable splendour, especially in the historic towns of Ubeda and Baeza. The nobility of this epoch transferred their residences here, constructing sumptuous palaces in late Gothic and Renaissance styles. Baeza even had its own university.
In the middle of the 18th Century, the illustrious monarch Carlos III focused his attention on the north of Jaen and created the New Settlements of the Sierra Morena, whose capital since then has been proudly represented by La Carolina. Pablo de Olavide was commissioned Superintendent of this new colony of inhabitants consis-ting of men and women from Central Europe. At the beginning of the 19th Century, the War ofIndependence once again accentuates the strategic importance of Jaen. In 1808 General Castaños’ s troops defeat Dupont’ s French army in the Battle of Bailen.
The administrative and territorial division in 1833 establishes Jaen as the capital of the Province. The following decades are difficult. Only Linares and La Carolina stand out for their mining activity, linked to the extraction of lead. The Civil War in 1936 deepens the depression. The post-war period fails to bring better times. Finally, in the 60s, an economic peak is perceived in the north of the province. The arrival of democracy brings with it the creation of an incipient business sector in the most populated towns. At the same time, agricultural systems in rural zones are undergoing modernization. The olive sector experiences its sweetest moments and the tourism industry acquires major importance. Jaen becomes a city of administration and service industries. The University of Jaen, created in 1995 contributes greatly to the modernity and progress of its province.
Jaen was one of the most beautiful, historic places that we stayed at and it proved to have a wealth of history and architecture. Our fist call was at the tourist office and for the first time ever, we found it difficult to find and the staff were very unhelpful, bordering on rude. However, we went on to explore the city under our own steam.
The castle at the top of the hill dominates the skyline. It now houses the best parador in Spain.
The Cathedral rises in the heart of the old city which comprises of a maze of old streets, oozing atmosphere. The main facade of the cathedral is a massive tableau of stone, flanked by two towers. Inside, don’t miss the 18th century choir and the seats dating from the 16th century.The cathedral with it’s 26 metre high towers, dwarfs the city. The Cathedral can be visited, free of charge and is well worth the effort. Outside the Cathedral is a square that makes a perfect resting place to admire the architecture.
The Arab Baths are of the best preserved in the country. The visit is free, under tight security and the visit combines several museums. There is a good guide available in English that explains the history and the workings of the baths. They were discovered in 1913 and declared a national monument in 1917.
There are dozens of churches and convents in Jaen, all with a unique character of their own, many beautiful squares with statues and fountains and a thriving market town style shopping area.
Semana Santa in the provincial capital of Jaen is an impressive experience that has been held since the middle of the 16th century and today is of great importance to the tourist. More than 7,000 hooded penitents escort the images through the streets on Good Friday.
On the first Sunday in September, Jaen hosts the feria de la Divina Pastora, a deeply rooted religious festival. It begins with a dawn mass, followed by the waving of banners by the Brotherhood of Shepherds, established in the 16th century. At night there is an outdoor fiesta with singing and dancing. In October the end of the bullfighting season is marked with impressive bullfights on horseback as well as colourful carriage displays.
The cultures of Iron, the Iberians and the Romans, left their mark on Jaen. The Arabs considerably developed the city due to its advantageous position for controlling the way between the meseta and the lands of Granada. Santa Catalina Castle was founded by the Arabs and enlarged by the Christians in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.
The Cathedral is Renaissance on the inside, with a Baroque front. The interior is by Andres de Vandelvira, who felt a passion for pure architectural elements. Interesting features include an almost flat vault, and the much admired sacristy. Eufrasio López de Rojas produced the facade from 1667 to 1686, inspired by El Escorial and by St. Peter’s in the Vatican. The columns and pedestals belong to what is known as the giant order. In harmony with these elements, the abundant statues are also of a considerable size. In the Cathedral, the veil of Veronica and the holy face of Christ are venerated; for this reason Jaen” is known as the capital of the Holy Kingdom.
The Renaissance palace of VilIardompardo is home to Arab baths from the eleventh century and houses the Museum of Art and Popular Customs.
Jaen capital has magnificent monuments, museums and curious details to reveal to us. In the center town there is a beautiful Cathedral built between the 16 th century and 18 th century in Renaissance style. The stately, Moorish Castle of Santa Catalina is proudly set on top of Mount Catalina, today made into a Parador Hotel. Close to here, on another hill is a graceful cross with an inspirational poem engraved on it. It is highly recommended to go up and see this and the awesome view of Jaen unique landscape. There is never a lack of ornate or enriched churches such as Saint Andrew´s Holy Chapel La Santa Capilla de San AndrEs, the church of Saint Ildefonso, the Convent of Las Bernardas or the Church of Saint Bernadette surrounded by a quaint churchyard. Iberian art from Pre-Roman times are exhibited at Jaen´s Provincial Museum.
As soon as we make the crossing through the Despenaperros mountain gorge, which is a very irregular, notched, rough mountain range separting Andalucia from the north of Spain, we come across a curious town called LaCarolina, founded by Carlos III as a new town in the 18 th century and mainly occupied by the Swiss. Its rectangular shape making up regular, symmetric little streets gives us the impression that it is a fortress.
Coming down towards Jaen to the west, we have the pleasure of visiting Andújar, lying on the Guadalquivir river bed and which is one of the largest olive oil producers in Andalucia. The Church of Saint Mary possesses intricate wrought iron railings, Plateresque entrance, a Moorish style bell tower and a chapel with one of El Greco´s paintings showing in it. In the Natural Park of Andujar, there is an indescribable route to arrive at La Virgen de la Cabeza, a 13 th century hermitage which is often frequented by travellers pilgrimmingto this holy place in April.
Back-tracking a little, we head over towards the east and discover Baeza, together with Ubeda. These two towns, hopelessly united, were the first to be re-conquered by the Christians following the famous battle at Las Navas de Tolosa. Baeza, airy although tiny, has a special leisurely atmosphere about it. The main square with its adjacent streets radiating from it like wheel spokes, has many relaxing, picturesque cafes so much a part of the social life. Renaissance mightiness can be seen everywhere as we approach the Square of the Lions. Being as this was the area where the Christians set out to re-conquer Andalucia, it is believed that from the curved balcony over the Tourist Information Office back then a glamorous mansion, the first religious ceremony was heard. The hypnotic palace of Jabalquinto , formally owned by a nobleman, nowadays used a seminary has much to show. The fascade is typical Isabelline style, not forgetting the Moorish characteristics. Quite near is a magnificent 16 th century Cathedral with its wrought iron railings. But even better is what is hidden inside. The painting of St. Peter conceals an enormous guardian angel and this can easily be revealed if you pay a small stipend. Saint Paul´s Church plays an important role during the festive days preceding the September 7 th religious procession that honours Our Most Holy Christ of the Ivy and the Virgen of Rossel. As most festivities are in Andalucia, there are special activities and always lively music and dance. The Old Market colonnade and the arcade of Barbudo are pretty. And do not forget to pay respects to Antonio Machado who taught at the university, loving called the twin of the Salamanca University as is the one in Ubeda.
As just mentioned, Ubeda is very closely linked to Baeza, not only because of its closeness in distance but also because they profess loyalty to a strong Castillian influence. Both Ubeda and Baeza still show the Castillian seriousness visible in the granite stone buildings and squares. We are not used to seeing this style of architecture more common to the north of Madrid like Salamanca or Avila . We are used to seeing more unworried and luminous little towns so frequently seen in Córdoba or Granada . The main attraction of our visit here is the Square de Vazquez de Molina, enclosed by the impressive Palace of the Chains. More wrought iron grating can be seen at the Chapel of Salvador. Renaissance shows through once again in the cute courtyard at the 16 th century Hospital of Santiago , nowadays used as the Town Hall, which features its square belfries.
In May there is an extraordinary Music Festival in Jaen with exuberant music for everyone: chamber music, flamenco, jazz, opera, symphony orchestra and of course, corporal movement to all these rythms-dance. Slidding a little further east, we run into the highlight of Jaen. The Cazorla mountain range which holds the Cazorla Natural park, Spain largest. Incredibly extensive, it links the Subbetica mountain to the Sierra Morena and includes the Guadalquivir River source, born as a valley stream in this undamaged wildlife preserve. A vast number of untamed animals, over 90 different kinds of birds nesting, night predators all sharing this wilderness wonderland. A fresh flora is open to us as we go on excursions through this enchanting open air fairyland. You can walk it, horseback ride it, bike it , four wheel drive it and even do it by canoe. Forceful waters are all around us with brooks and streams coming in on all sides. The landscape constantly changes, sometimes heavily populated with pine trees and bushes, others with bare cliffs and abrupt river windings. It is a moving illustaration of life, a never ending illusion, only to be captured ´right then and there´.